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Augustus 16 - 23 2023: Art and Kuhle Wampe in Germany. On the left you see a map of my trip, every color representing a traveling goal or traveling day. Start and finish: Erlecom (marked '0'). Every trip's destination is marked on the map with a number; click it to directly go there. Wednesday, August 16, 145km: Thursday, August 17, 41km: Friday, August 18, 259km: Sunday, August 20, 239km: Tuesday, August 22, 179km: Wednesday, August 23, 173km: Total: 1.036km. |
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Wednesday, August 16: start of my twenty-first motorcycle holiday with the CBX. I never became friends with my TomTom 500 in the past few years so I decided to say goodbye to it and use Google Maps on my cell phone. I bought a cover from SP Connect and constructed a mount for the handlebars. |
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It turned out to be a good choice. One big disadvantage: because the mobile phone is also my camera, it was less tempting to take photos on the go, because of #hassle. |
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First I visited the Lehmbruck Museum in Duisburg. I'd been there before; nice place. |
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The museum is named after sculptor Wilhelm Lehmbruck (1881-2019), whose museum appealed to me more than his sculptures did. |
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Lots of modern art, such as this small but unmistakable work by Kenneth Snelson, who you might know from the fascinating Needle Tower at the Kröller-Müller in Otterlo; an apparently floating construction. |
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Kinetic object by Alexander Calder, from 1940. Also very delicate. |
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Much of the artwork was highly touchable (see above) ... |
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... with shaky balances and rotating discs, such as in this work by Maria Vieira from 1963. Here too, it was like in most museums: No touching!'. Too bad but very understandable as well because all the work was extremely vulnerable. |
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Sculpture that did appeal to me, by Alberto Giacommetti, from 1950. With his characteristic elongated figures. |
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'Resonator Wind' (2019) by Nevin Aladag, a mix between artwork and wind instrument that also wanted action. Although, with corona still relatively fresh in mind... better not. |
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Another kinetic work, by Jean Tinguely. Everything moves, turns, beeps, truly enchanting. I wasn't allowed to film it... 'just because it isn't allowed'. The attendant was unable to provide further explanation. |
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Fortunately, Tinguely's sketches are almost as dynamic as his spatial work. |
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Sit, watch and experience. |
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The audience was like the average museum audience: colorful and elderly. |
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Next I searched and found a supermarket... |
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... and headed to one of the few campsites in the Ruhr area... |
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... where it was overcrowded with caravans and campers, and few tents. |
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After years of loyal service, I had replaced my spirit cooker from Trangia with a gas cooker from MSI. MSI stands for 'Mountain Safety Research', a rather pompous name. |
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But I have to say, their PocketRocket (pompous again..) was a nifty little burner that served well. |
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Lamb, tortellini with ricotta and spinach. Ready in no time, which I thought was a shame: slow cooking has so much charm on a holiday like this. |
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Then a beer and a book: life is good! |
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Taking a walk ... |
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... always looking for photographic sadness. There must be something completely wrong with me that I'm enjoying this. ;) |
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The beauty of decay. Just fascinating. |
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That night (my first one of the holiday) it rained cats and dogs, with thunder and lightning. |
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Thursday, August 17: the zipper of my trusty mini tent was broken, which caused quite some wetness. |
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We've experienced a lot together, this tent and I. :) As a tribute, I will repair the zipper after the holidays. |
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In a cafe I had breakfast with a firm cup of cappuccino. |
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On my way to Museum Folkwang... |
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... where I already knew my bike wasn't allowed to be parked close to the museum, hell no! So I simply parked it next to other bikes. |
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I came for the retrospective of the Dutch internet artist Rafaël Rozendaal, with his surprising, colorful work. |
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But first there were the classics: Nam June Paik ... |
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... Mark Rothko ... |
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... and this work called 'Tomlinson Court Park 1', from 1959, by Frank Stella. Shades of black, I love it. |
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Op(tical) Art by Jesus Raphael Soto, from the year I was born, so very long ago. Certainly as special seen from the side as from the front: the image changes at every angle. |
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Speaking of classics: A Real Van Gogh, from 1889 ... |
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... and 'Mountain Landscape with Rainbow' (1810) by the über-romantic painter Caspar David Friedrich. He was fascinated by the mystical and interested in the riddle of life. Well, aren't we all? ;) |
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Speaking of 'classic': Folkwang really goes back a long way in time. It's only a matter of time before the Egyptians will reclaim this. |
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Anyway: Rafeal Roozendaal. Very minimalist work, in color and shape. And in text ... |
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... as seen in these haikus. Which nevertheless make you think. If you are receptive to that. |
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His work 'Color, Code, Communication' shows 81 large screens in a darkened room. A two-color 'horizon' can be seen on each screen. Tranquil and enchantingly simple. |
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The road surface in Essen was a rude wake-up call after the museum visit. Sometimes five kilometers of city traffic is more painful than two hundred kilometers of motorway. And that was the case. |
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On the way back, a stop by the Edeka ... |
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sta... and back at the campsite I had several visitors who wanted to pose. Like this very cheerful gardener. |
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The condition of the campsite was exceptionally good. Brand new kitchen, very spacious showers with rain showers ... |
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... even a dishwasher... |
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... and a coffee machine, with wonderful flavors such as 'Chocamento'. |
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I took the time to prepare a truffle-ricotta tortellini with apple-beetroot salad and Mediterranean chicken breast fillet. |
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That evening I received another visit from Cristian, whom I had met at the CBX in the afternoon. He asked me if I wanted to take a canoe trip. I immediately thought that was a good idea so he pumped up his boat. |
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And so, half an hour later, completely unexpectedly, I found myself paddling on the Ruhr River. Really beautiful. |
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After an hour and a half I reached a steel railway bridge, where Cristian picked me up and took me back to the camp site. |
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Really beautiful, such an unexpected event. Peanuts and a bottle of wine completed the evening. |
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Cristian provides creative workshops for children, called 'The Cardboard Crafts Workshop'. The next morning he presented me a sword with a personal inscription. |
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Of course I couldn't take this with me on my trip, it just wouldn't survive. A week after returning I received it by post, in a – of course homemade – cardboard tube. And I found a nice spot in the garage, next to last year's award. |
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Friday, August 18: on this really hot day I left for the main goal of the week: a visit to the Kuhle Wampe motorcycle meet. Along the way I made a stop at bike rhotel Tonenburg. Beautiful place ... |
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... even though there was hardly anything going on. The welcome was very hospitable, and the non-alcoholic beer tasted great. |
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Food was nowhere to be had; no shops open, no snack bars. Luckily I found a cafe that served a nutritious meal. ;) |
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Bike club Kuhle Wampe organized their summer meeting for the forty-fourth time. It is a strongly politically committed motorcycle club with an extremely left-wing signature. The club takes its name from the Bertold Brecht film from the early 1930s, during the crisis leading up to National Socialism. They preached communist ideas but we all know that things turned out differently. :( |
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The first confrontation was not so positive: motorcycles and tents were separated. For me a reason to leave a meeting immediately ... |
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... if it weren't for the fact that they recommended the following solution to me. And that was fine. |
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In the blazing heat I set up my tent after which I took a lovely long dip in the natural pool, located next to the meeting site. |
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You could buy a card for ten drinks, which they called 'Pixel'. In previous years the same card was called 'Ruble', but they didn't think it was appropriate these days, not even in this left-wing stronghold. I thought it was great that you could choose the price yourself: 12 Euro if you have more money, and 10 if you don't. A very good price anyway; where can you get a beer for €1.20? |
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They really dislike fascists. And that's totally fine with me. |
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The political commitment was all over the place. Chronologically on the posters: warnings against anti-Semitism, false promises by politicians, anti-fascism, anti-racism, democracy under attack, the need for activism, and the statement that Björn Höcke is a Nazi. Heavy stuff. |
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There was also a list with the names, places of residence and photos of, allegedly, neo-Nazis. And the unmistakable warning 'Wir kriegen euch alle!' ('We'll get you all!'). I thought that was quite intense. |
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There were clear rules about what is and is not allowed at the meeting, with a true 'Awareness Team' to whom you could report abuse. |
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In the meantime it was quite nice around the campfire. |
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The next morning there war the breakfast choice that you'd expect with such a vision on life; no problem with that, it was diverse. |
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There were also all kinds of milk. |
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Well-intentioned but hilariously one-dimensional was the play called 'Du hast angefangen! Nein Du!' ("You started! No you did!"). A truly cringe-worthy metaphor of two bickering bears who eventually became each other's friends once they communicated. |
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Some guys warned me that my bike not only had a lot of visitors (I'm used to that) but that there was also a lot of tapping, knocking and squeezing going on. Unfortunately, I've experienced that a lot, but at this site it was one after the other. Maybe their view on property was different from mine...? |
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Anyway, I did not like it. Fortunately the note 'Finger weg, danke' ('No touching, thanks') helped. Although the note was occasionally removed because yes, it does not look good on a photo. |
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There were many charity activities. The proceeds from the haircuts went straight to Cuba. |
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At many motorcycle events, a ride-out takes place on Saturday afternoon: you can enjoy riding together in an endless parade. Not so at Kuhle Wampe: there, in a sweltering tent, discussions took place for an hour and a half about how to achieve world peace; they don't set the bar low. ;) It was really interesting to experience: statements ranging from mild (convincing through arguments) to inevitable violence were made. Whatever you might think: these people are very committed and really want to improve the world in their own way. |
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In the afternoon the muggy weather turned into threatening skies ... |
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... so I was just in time to take a refreshing dip. Well, just too late actually because it was already thundering. |
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The remarkable chef prepared a delicious meal. Of which I took in two without blinking an eye. |
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There were two bands that night. First Alien Fight Club, a punk band from Bonn, with a very angry singer who clearly disagreed with the world and shared this with us in an unintelligible way. |
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After that came Millie Manders and the Shutup, also not a very inviting name. But what great music that was, and what a show. Awesome! |
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I concluded with a nightcap, of course including a political discussion. |
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Sunday, August 20: the day started very hot, clearing the tent had to be done in the blazing sun. The wind was very welcome and necessary. |
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Direction Westerwald. A beautiful motorcycle area, with elongated curves of stunning asphalt. |
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I visited the Marienstatt Monastery, from the thirteenth century. With a beautiful garden. |
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The visit to the Stöffel Park, a former mining site, was also really worthwhile. I like these kind of desolate places ... |
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... and huge machines ... |
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... which makes you feel like you've gone back in time a century and a half. |
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Nice, a campsite near a lake. With an almost deserted restaurant. With a view of the Wiesensee. |
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Strange ... there were boats... but no lake! |
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Google Maps actually showed one, with blue water and all. |
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There really should be a lake here! |
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"You wonder: where is the lake?". They deflated it, hopefully temporarily ... |
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... because the local bars and restaurants obviously has a hard time with that. Especially shortly after corona. To support them, I tasted local liqueurs and bought a nice bottle to take home. |
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The day ended with a beautiful sunset. |
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Tuesday, August 22: I visited Skulpturenpark Waldfrieden, in Wuppertal. |
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A park with monumental statues, including this bike under sail... |
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... which, however, was made of bronze. Surprising, what art should be like. |
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I didn't know the famous Spanish surrealist artist Joan Miró also made sculptures. This is 'Femme', from 1981, and must have been one of his last works because he died in 1983. Given the rather explicit nature of his work (...) it would undoubtedly have led to considerable discussions in 2023. In 'his time' the work was mainly described as 'childishly naive' and 'disarming'. |
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This 'Tongue', from Not Vital (special name) was an impressive, highly polished stainless steel work of art in which the surroundings were beautifully reflected. |
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The sculpture park featured an extensive collection of the work of sculptor Tony Cragg. |
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You can also find his very recognizable work on the Stationsplein in Nijmegen, for example. Picture: Wilma Lankhorst. |
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In the evening I prepared a hearty meal ... |
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... and something for the next morning, the day of departure. |
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It was a beautiful location, with a beautiful sunset. |
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A bit of reading, with a beer. |
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I think reading on a bike holiday is very important. Everything I take with me has to be tiny and light, but not a book: I'm not a big fan of e-readers, I like paper.. |
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The view was like a postcard. |
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The next morning curious cows, next to my tent, woke me up. |
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I rode to Museum K21 in Düsseldorf, and took up almost the entire locker room by myself. |
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The work of Hito Steyerl called 'SocialSim' appealed to me a lot. It is a response to Covid: it simulates the danger of being infected through dance. |
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Nevertheless, it was very exciting. Beautiful deeper level. Still absolutely unsuitable for people with 'photosensitive epilepsy, as the accompanying warning stated. |
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The video work connected beautifully with 'In orbit' by Tomás Saraceno; more about this later. |
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First the unreal realities of Ad Atkins. 3D simulated human figures with intense emotional behaviour ... |
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... keep misleading you: yes, it is 'fake', you can clearly see that ... |
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... but strangely enough, the intensity will get you. |
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In the end there was no escaping it: 'In orbit' by Tomás Saraceno. This is what my hand looked like after I experienced the artwork; this is what stress looks like. |
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At a height of more than 25 meters, an enormous steel net of no less than 25,000 square meters has been stretched; very impressive in itself. |
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Beautiful how the net blends with the open architecture of the building. |
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An impression of the height. |
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What caused the stress? See that little reclining human figure in the center of the photo? So you were allowed on the net. And that is so unnatural that almost all the fear-of-heights-alarm-bells went off for many people, including me. Fantastic experience, I never wanted to miss it ... but it was certainly a one-off for me too! |
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It was an impressive week. The sun and the A57 accompanied me home. |